Oct. 4: Happy Places
Just when you think you’ve seen “the MOST beautiful thing” you could ever possibly see in your life, the world throws your senses for a loop. For example: today’s excursions.
We hopped in the bangka this morning with intentions to see a freshwater lake and a beach on a separate island. That was all that we had paid for with our tour package. As we were pulling up to our first beach, CYC Beach (no clue what the letters mean), one of our crew explained to Rex that there were other places they could take us to today but we would have to pay for them. How much? Oh, a hefty $2 per person. Why not, right?
So our day began with the small CYC Beach. As we were docking in the water one of our guys spotted a huge lizard on the beach sunning itself! It had been frightened away by the time we got close enough to take a picture, but we saw it from afar! The beach was surrounded on both sides by mangroves and behind it were cliffs. Very beautiful, but small. On to the next place?
Our crew took us to what is bound to be the most breath-taking-ly, awe-inspiring-ly, freakin’ gorgeous beach I’ve ever seen in my life! Unfortunately, the photos we took of this place do it no justice at all. As we pulled up onto the white sand, we saw that we were in a bay of limestone cliffs that had vertical crags and jags everywhere. The water was the most brilliant turquoise color I’d ever seen, with different shades of color depending on the depths of the water. There were trees somehow growing all over the top and sides of this mountain. There were big limestone boulders in the water in front of the beach that had been shaped into sharp, scary, beautiful knife-like blades (unfortunately, I was to experience exactly how sharp later). It was pretty much the picture that you always look at when Coron is advertised and think, skeptically to yourself, “That is SO photoshopped!” Would you believe that this place was so gorgeous it looked like the most perfect photoshopped picture out there?
Banol Beach... my new happy place!
We snorkeled for a bit and saw a smattering of fish we’d never seen before, including one really slender one with a pointy nose! (no, it wasn’t a sword fish) I chased its school around for awhile trying to get a good picture, but I couldn’t get close enough and for some reason it wouldn’t be still!
Beautiful waters at Banol Beach
After piling back onto the bangka our driver took us into a nearby maze of wide canals that led through the tall limestone cliffs. As we meandered along, we again saw crystal clear water of all shades of blue and green. We dead-ended in a place with a sign announcing “Twin Lagoons”. It was a cove with deep waters and those same cliffs surrounding us on about 270 degrees. We were lectured that the real treat was after you swam underneath a short cave and into the neighboring lagoon. Luckily, they had a ladder option as well (my non-swimming spouse chose this) and I braved the adventure of swimming under the tunnel, which is at the base of one of these cliffs of jagged, sharp rock. Stupidly, I left my snorkel on and our underwater camera case around my neck. The combination of these, plus the thought of swimming underneath a mountain (even though it was only about a 2 meter long swim), freaked me out half way through the swim. This was about the point where the stuff I was trying to hold onto made me start to rise up in the water. I pushed back with my left foot to kick off of the stones of the mountain and SLICE! Right through my heel! Razor sharp, I tell you… totally not cool. Thankfully the slice didn’t go too deep, but it was definitely deep enough to take an uncomfortable chunk out of my skin. I also realized that I must have put my hand up in panic because there were several razor-like slices along my right hand as well. Seriously, you probably cannot imagine the sharpness of these rocks… but “like razors” is the best I can describe them. And they are everywhere!
The lagoon was yet another breath-taking moment (more like 45 moments, because that’s about how long we spent swimming around there). We were in perfectly still, clear, blue-green water with beautiful cliffs surrounding us… and there were so many fish!
It was late morning by now and we headed off to our last stop before lunch: Kayangan Lake. This was a freshwater lake that the locals who live on Coron Island consider to be sacred. You had to hike to it over a mountainside (where they had the tourist foresight to put steps). Once at the top we turned around and saw the view of the cove we had entered from… goodness, another total WOW moment! We had to walk back down the mountain to actually get into the freshwater lake. Once inside, we saw thousands of what looked to be cousins of the pointy-nosed fish we’d seen in the ocean earlier! They were schooling calmly along the banks. A little boy scooped a baby one up in his hands and I got a nice picture! Interesting how that evolution must have taken place… close cousins in both the saltwater ocean and the neighboring freshwater lake! (okay, I’ll shut up about biology… this is a vacation!)
Lunch was eaten in the boat, and then we were whisked away to our next stop: Makinit Hotsprings. So I’ve become a skeptic when it comes to hot springs. I’ve been to only two other “hot” springs before and was sorely disappointed by exactly how hot they were. I would say luke warm at best for the others. So it really didn’t mean much to me when the driver of the boat told us that this particular hot springs was “really hot” at 48 degrees Celsius. When we were in Los Banos last Christmas, I watched in wonder as Filipinos would put their toes into the hardly warm water and scream that it was SO hot. Huh? Even after living for a year and a half overseas, I still have to translate everything into Fahrenheit. 48 degrees meant nothing to me… so we jumped right on in… and this water was HOT! It was like when you run bathwater and put your foot in only to realize that it’s near scalding. So kind of like that, but it didn’t actually scald us… it just felt really nice! One lesson learned today: 48 degrees Celsius is NOT luke warm!
Our last tourist site of the day was a place called Siete Pecados (seven… ??). Famed for having many fish, we snorkeled around while the guys on the boat fed the fish over and over again to lure them our way. There were definitely a LOT of fish! We also saw a HUGE blue starfish, but we couldn’t get a great picture because it was underneath a rock. If I were to estimate I would say that it was probably 2 feet wide!
We made a quick stop in Coron city proper to pick up some sodas and snacks… and do a quick email check at an internet café. Thanks to all for the birthday wishes! They are much appreciated =)
We tried to watch the sunset but although it had been a relatively clear day (scattered showers only) there was a storm rolling in to the west… and we couldn’t see much of a sunset. Tired from our long day, I was crashed out around 8 o’clock.
Yummy meals/dishes today: chicken adobo, mystery vegetable = eggplant (really good!), egg drop soup, ??
October 5:
One very rustic thing about this place we’re staying is that there are absolutely no modern anything… no internet, no cell phone signal, and no electricity! Well… technically there can be electricity, but it is only produced by a generator and it typically is only started at dusk (about the time the karaoke begins) and usually stays on until around 6am… but these past couple of nights it has shut off sometime during the night. No electricity means no fans in our room. There is actually still a bit of a breeze, but with the loss of fan comes the loss of white noise which makes those darned roosters even more noticeable.
I do value the simplicity of this place. The men spent all day today working on a boat they are making. I guess not every boat out there is made in a factory, and that was a really neat realization to come to. One guy was “mowing” the lawn in front of the cabanas with his machete. The women, on the other hand, literally spend their time preparing the next sumptuous meal, cleaning, and washing clothes. The cats catch mice and the dogs usually beg for food when you sit down for a meal. It really is a good life here. In a way, I envy the fact that these people live here so happily and so simply. There is the ocean for food, there’s the seaweed farm and boat making for income (as well as the cabanas they rent out to tourists like us) and the two children don’t even know what the word ‘bored’ means. I wish I could just move here and learn how to build things and cook and have a garden… and maybe even some chickens. Although the roosters will have to be banned to the far side of the island.
Today was a relatively relaxing day. We ‘slept in’ which consisted of getting another hour of sleep in after the rooster started his noise. We were lounging around reading our books (I bought the new Dan Brown book at the Hong Kong airport!) when one of the staff asked if we’d like to see the mangrove forest. We agreed and I layered on the sunscreen AND clothes (already sunburned… not chancing making that worse) and we jumped on the kayaks to follow our host.
Apparently we suck at rowing. The guy we were following would paddle about two times and then sit and wait for us to struggle to catch up. Is there some secret trick I’m not aware of with paddling a boat? Seriously… this guy could have made it there and back by the time we went one way. When we finally made it to the mangrove forest, he directed us to this entryway that was a clearing amidst all the tangled roots. It was a different place than where we went on our first day (much farther away) and the path he led us on was much wider. He said that it was so wide that during high tide they could bring their big boat through there and it was faster to get to the main island that way. It was so relaxing… quiet… peaceful. Our guide pointed out a tree with a HUGE bee hive in it, something I definitely would never have noticed without his direction.
On the way back our guide was so far ahead of us that he got out of his kayak, took a 5 minute swim, and got back in as we were passing him up. Thirty seconds later he was almost home as we stared after him in disbelief.
We had a really nice sunset tonight and took plenty of beautiful pictures! It was nice to sit out on the floating pier (that wasn’t floating since it was low tide) and watch the sun set behind Sangat Island. As soon as the last rays of light left the sky, we noticed all of the fireflies coming out in the trees. I guess it had maybe been too rainy the past few days for them to come out, but tonight they were everywhere! Too bad it’s nearly impossible to take good pictures of fireflies.
The sky was clear enough tonight to see stars… and there were so many! Stargazing in the middle of a private island… perfect ending to another perfect day in paradise.
Yummy meals today: Fried calamari strips, fried fish fillets, tuna steaks, Filipino menudo, boiled vegetables with butter